Fanny Pack Mother Lode

  • updated: 3/7/24 with 2 new bag reviews

Since I use this site to spread info and not get clicks or traffic, I’m going to brain dump everything I know about fanny pack carry. I’m going to cover my history with fanny packs, their use case, their downsides, pistol requirements and considerations, draw stroke, and a review of every fanny pack I’ve owned. I’ve been carrying in fanny packs intermittently since 2008 and almost exclusively since 2020. Here’s how I got into fanny pack carry. 

I first started considering using a fanny pack in 2008. I watched Jay Gibson of Tactical Response show up to the range with his Maxpedition Octa full of Glock 19 with big dots and teach part of Fighting Pistol with it. I was very early in my shooting career, but I noted how easy and unobtrusive the fanny pack seemed to be for toting irrespective of dress. Paul Gomez (Rest In Peace), also occasionally used fanny packs and gave me some good pointers on choosing one. He taught me to buy the most tourist/normie fanny pack color and design I could, and if possible apply some national park patches to it to look like a hiker rather than a cop. He actually made a video about some of his ideas. These two guys, who I highly respected, used them, so why shouldn’t I be able to?



For a long time, fanny packs either meant cop or dork. I was resistant to using them for anything but dog walks, hiking, or camping, but fanny packs as an accessory have come back into fashion and wearing one isn’t out of place in 2024. Starting in 2020, I decided that since I was doing a lot of gardening, mostly wearing sweatpants, and that I didn’t have the patience for a belt, I committed to fanny pack life. Now that I’m back to coaching Jiu Jitsu, I rarely have the need for a traditional kydex holster and belt. If I do need a real holster, I use my PHLSTER Enigma to still allow beltless concealed carry.

I say all that to say, I have been accumulating opinions on fanny packs for quite a while, and have lived with them daily since early 2020. I’ll share my thoughts with you here.


Addressing the Off-Body Carry Elephant


Technically a fanny pack is considered “OFF BODY” carry, since the bag is visible and can be easily removed. For several important reasons, off-body carry is less than ideal. 

  • The first big issue is that off-body bags themselves are the target of a theft because of their usual contents (think purse, shoulder sling bag, gym bag, backpack, etc). 
  • The second issue, related to the first, is that people constantly remove their off-body carry bag depending on their environment. Purses go in shopping carts, backpacks get put in a spare chair or under the desk, sling bags get draped over a restaurant chair, etc. This opens them up for theft as well as unauthorized access (children being my biggest concern). 
  • Lastly, off-body guns are slower to access, often requiring two hands. There is also the likelihood that the bag has changed orientation relative to your body, requiring your visual attention to index the bag before you can even start accessing the gun. 

That said, there is certainly a time and place for off-body carry if you understand the possible drawbacks and avoid user error.

The good news is that a fanny pack doesn’t share the same drawbacks as other forms of off-body carry. The pack stays on your body, doesn’t shift as you move, and can be accessed one handed in a variety of positions. I’d argue that fanny packs are in the middle ground of Off-Body and Concealed Carry. It allows the comfort and versatility of off-body carry with the ability to readily access your gun in a very congruent manner to an appendix carry setup. It also allows a convenient way to carry support gear and keep your pockets from bulging. Some would argue that they are the worst of both worlds but that’s just a matter of perspective, fashion sense, and needs.

When is a fanny pack a convenient way to carry?

I will always default to the most comfortable and convenient way to carry, when balanced against the dress requirements, level of visual scrutiny expected, perceived threat level, and gun requirement I have for a given situation. Here’s a quick list of times that a fanny pack is an ideal way to carry:

  • Yard Chores
  • Dog walks/ Hiking
  • Shopping Trips
  • Around the house (They allow me to carry more gun at home VS an Underwear Gun)
  • Globo-Gym workout (If I squat, I’ll place the bag in front of me within arms reach, otherwise it stays on)
  • Road Trips
  • Whenever I’m beltless (Gi pants, gym shorts, sweats)
  • Whenever I need to be able to comfortably bend at the waist
American Go-THICC

What don’t they do?

Fanny packs are slower to draw from than concealed IWB carry, which is slower than open carry, which is slower than just walking around with a pistol in your hand. That said, I don’t sweat a 1-2 second penalty on my draw time. If the shooting problem is directed toward me at contact distance, drawing on an aimed gun is a losing battle and is likely a grappling problem first. If the problem allows any distance stand-off, verbal or visual deception, or physical movement, the time penalty becomes less important. Either way, I just don’t sweat the time penalty very much. I’d like to be the first person to take a fanny pack through Shivwork’s ECQC.

Fanny packs draw more visual attention and could raise questions. For this problem, I always choose the least tactical color available and have even sewn outdoor equipment patches or national park patches to make it look less scary. I also have a canned response if someone asks what I keep in there. I tell them it’s my insulin and blood sugar testing supplies (I’m not diabetic, but I’m stealing valor). I also prefer getting the smallest footprint pack I can find that is appropriately sized for the gun I expect to carry. 

What does a CCW fanny pack need to do?

Similar to how a ‘safe’ IWB holster has several requirements:

  • Allow a full firing grip on the gun while holstered
  • Keep its shape to allow one handed holstering
  • Adequately protect the trigger while holstered
  • Stay in place on the belt

 So too does a useful fanny pack. Here are my requirements:

  • Has a dedicated gun slot which keeps errant chapstick and keys from touching triggers
  • Keeps the gun oriented and indexed reliably
  • Allows one handed opening of bag and draw of the gun
  • The bag sufficiently protects the trigger or has a velcro field to attach a nylon loop holster or attachment points to dummy cord a kydex trigger guard holster

What are the pistol requirements for a fanny pack?

Unlike other holsters which you buy to fit the exact gun you carry, fanny packs require more careful pistol selection. I tend to not bother with an internal nylon loop holster or kydex trigger guard, so I will only carry Double Action pistols, Revolvers, or safety-equipped single action guns. Currently, I prefer to carry my Sig P365XL with safety, but I’ve carried a number of guns in fanny packs over the years to include K and J-frame revolvers, Glock 19, Smith Shield, Beretta PX4c, and some others. If you decide to carry a glock or plastic gun without a manual safety, I strongly recommend a kydex trigger guard which you will dummy cord to the body of the fanny pack. Keep the dummy cord as short as possible, or you will have an extra long vertical draw before the kydex rips free. Large heavy guns like Beretta 92s *can* be carried in fanny packs, but the weight and footprint of the fanny pack starts to become a tell.

Tips and Tricks

Here are a few tips to help you set up your fanny pack to be useful in the widest set of circumstances:

  • If you have a pack that uses zipper pulls, I highly recommend changing the main pistol zipper pull to something that is both thicker and longer than the other pull tabs on the other zippers. This allows no-look indexing of the zipper pull with your hands while your eyes are on more important matters. I have purchased longer cloth pull tabs and have braided paracord into box weave pulls. 
  • Close your pistol zippers at the top right corner (for right handed shooters) and your other pockets at the left side. This prevents accidental opening of the pistol pocket when you’re going for your wallet or chapstick. Closing at the top right also allows a single movement to the left for access which lowers the chances of hanging up at the 90 degree turn in the zipper path. 
  • Another way to set up a zipper bag is to run a long stiff cloth pull from inside the bag and let it peek through the slight opening in the two closed zippers. This gives you a single point to grab and rip away from your body, which simultaneously pulls both zippers in the process. I also generally prefer the pistol to lay at a 45-degree angle in the pouch, which allows a more natural wrist angle on the draw, but this is bag dependent. 
  • Lastly, if you find a fanny pack design you like, but at least one spare. These are niche carry items, and everyone tries to put their spin on them. So it’s hard to find another one that has the features you value the most. I only have two of the KG Products discontinued model and I wish I had 4 of them.

How to draw from a fanny pack

I wrote this in 2016, and it’s still perfectly adequate to explain the draw: https://www.growingupguns.com/2016/08/29/technique-draw-from-a-fanny-pack/

The most important detail is that the draw stroke is the same as when using a IWB holster once you get a full firing grip on the gun in the bag. So your fanny pack should allow acquiring the full firing grip in the fewest possible steps. Be aware of your muzzle on the draw, as it is possible to flag your off hand as you clear the bag. I tend to retract my elbow and let my pistol track towards a retention shooting position (thumb-pectoral index), which keeps the muzzle pointed down and away from my off hand while I draw.

Bags I’ve used

Top: Bianchi, Maxpedition Middle: Tommy’s Gun, KG Products Bottom: Eberlestock, HPG

Here’s a list of the fanny packs I’ve used, and a simple rating and explanation of features:

The Shield Arms Junk Sack – 5 / 5 https://www.shieldarms.com/shop/category/soft-goods-bags-junk-sack-275

This is the speed rig of fanny packs. It uses rare earth magnets (how do they work?) and side velcro for closure. There is a fabric handle that allows easy indexing without having to look down, and a sharp yank forward opens the gun compartment. Exactly like the discontinued KG Products pack that I loved so much. This is the modern solution to a no-look one-handed fanny pack draw. The gun compartment holds my P365 and a small TQ in a pouch at the bottom. Perfect solution for me. The storage pouch is just a little smaller than I’d prefer, but uses a stretchy fabric that accommodates the essentials. This one gets my highest recommendation. Get one and try it.

VERTX SOCP tactical fanny pack. 4.5 / 5 https://vertx.com/socp-tactical-fanny-pack

It’s big. It reminds me of the 90’s cop fanny packs that people recognize as gun bags. BUT, if you need extra space, for either a larger gun or more gear, it seems like a good option. The zipper gun closure is the industry standard approach, and has all the drawbacks I outlined in my post. There is a dedicated external phone pouch that doubles as a viewing sleeve so you can watch Rich Piana’s 8 hour arm workout videos while you eat cheetos. There are good organization slots in the cargo pocket, with plenty of room for daily needs as well as a some medical gear. It can accommodate a g19 with optic and muzzle brake, as opposed to most of the others I’ve reviewed in which my P365xl with dot and 15 round mag is a snug fit. It also has some webbing on the body facing side which would be perfect for attaching a punch dagger or similar fixed blade knife. It’s really good, it’s just not perfect for my needs at the moment.

Eberlestock BANDO bag 4 / 5 https://eberlestock.com/products/bando-bag

This one is brand new to me as of early January 2024. It is laid out very similar to the Hill People Gear Snubby belt bag that I’ve used for several years. There are some design choices that I like more than the HPG bag. For one, there is no dust flap over the gun pocket. This prevents the possibility of the dust flap jamming up the zipper when you aggressively yank the zipper pull, which has happened to me. The volume of the bag feels slightly smaller, but the footprint and slightly domed shape looks more like hiking gear than the cubical shape of the HPG. I also like the elastic TQ keeper band in the upper flap of the utility compartment and zippered mesh divider for keeping things more organized. The elastic and velcro muzzle loop works very well at keeping the pistol oriented properly, but has enough give to allow a natural draw path without hanging up the pistol on the way out.

I don’t like the fact that there is only one pull on the utility portion of the bag, and that it only opens from the right side. This creates a small jungle of pull loops in the same area, which only creates confusion when you draw. This is another reason to buy or make a distinctly sized and shaped zipper pull for your main gun zipper. I probably will also try to make a pull tab that attaches inside the gun slot so I can pull a single tab and get both zippers to open at once, as mentioned in the tips and tricks section. I’ll know more in a few months of use. I’d also like to see a slightly larger tooth size on the gun compartment zipper. I’ll mention that more in my “dream fanny pack” section below.

LAPG FRUNK 2 / 5 https://snp.link/8a7a5ce6

This was a run of cheapo fanny packs that LA Police gear released a couple of years ago. They were thinner nylon and only had one main pocket with a velcro backing to accommodate a nylon loop holster. The front accessory pocket couldn’t hold a phone and wallet. For this reason, it doesn’t have much utility for keeping your pockets clear. But they were less than $25, so they were a cheap intro into fanny packs. This one would make a good medical fanny pack for range work, or a dedicated dog walking bag. I gave mine to my sister.

Maxpedition OCTA Versipak 2 / 5 https://amzn.to/48XcyPM

My first fanny pack for carry. It’s made of heavy 1000D cordura. The downside is that there is only one main pocket, and a front zip pocket. So while you can carry a pistol in it, there isn’t much room for anything else. This one would make a good medical fanny pack for range work.

KG Products (discontinued) 4.5 / 5

My favorite fanny pack ever. It had a dedicated gun pocket that was sealed with velcro, and kept shut by a single snap button at the corner. This was the closest thing to a gross motor draw as I have found in a fanny pack. You would grab a bunch of material near the button closure, and rip forward. It was only set up for right-handed shooters, which suited me fine. The utility pocket and front zip pocket was enough for wallet, phone, light, and some medical equipment. 

The main downside of this bag was a lack of rigidity, molle, or velcro field in the body-contacting panel of the gun section. As a result, the bag tended to sag away from the body, making it appear larger than it needed to be. Velcro also has a lifespan and eventually starts to wear out, so the closure eventually becomes more prone to opening on its own.

Spiritus Systems Fanny SACK 2 / 5 https://snp.link/871743fb

While a sought after brand for chest rigs and such, this one wasn’t really designed for pistol carry. Just like the Maxpedition OCTA, it only had the main large pocket. Once again, this one would be perfect for a man purse or range medical bag.

Bianchi Top Secret Fanny Pack (discontinued) 1 / 5 

This is the style of fanny pack that people who were around in the 90’s would say screams “COP”!. The footprint is very large across the hips. The secret gun pocket is closed with velcro only. The upside is it had mirrored ambidextrous velcro closures. The downside is that the opening required a nearly horizontal draw to clear. Poorly designed bag in my opinion. The body contact panel was a comfortable and semi-rigid foam and could accommodate glock 17 sized pistols, but you can only fit a K-frame revolver inside of it. I don’t get it.

Galco Fastrax PAC 1 / 5

This one looks cool on paper, but it failed at one of my main requirements. Galco kindly sent me one of these in early 2020 for T&E. I wish I would have liked it more. The form factor of the bag was very small. So small in fact, that the gun must lay horizontal in the bag, and there is an integral pivoting holster that requires you to tug on a tab to get the gun to pivot 90 degrees upward to allow you to get a firing grip. So you have to unzip the bag (1st action), and then find another small pull tab to yank and pivot the internal holster (2nd action). As a result, not only do you have to dexterously find two small pieces of fabric to pull, you also must use two hands to keep the holster vertical long enough to make a full firing grip. Fully a non-starter if you understand how an up close fight can go. It is like a Rube Goldberg machine for pistols. That and the gun could sometimes hang up on the flaps of the zipper as it pivoted. I liked that they were trying something different, but this one was a flop for me.

Hill People Gear Belt Pack Snubby 4 / 5 https://hillpeoplegear.com/Products/CategoryID/1/ProductID/129

This one was a long time companion. It can hold a SIG p365 with red dot and smaller guns. The front utility pocket was enough to hold a phone, wallet, gum, flashlight. The front flat pocket could hold some medical gear. The shape was cubic, which looks slightly more tactical than other styles (a negative). It worked well and is a good size. They now make a slightly larger size that probably would be even better for comfortably holding other odds and ends.

There were several things I didn’t like about this bag. The biggest one was the zipper setup. They used a relatively fine-toothed zipper, which requires more force and is more prone to gumming up when exposed to lots of dirt. I’d love to see them make this with a larger toothed zipper pull for the gun pocket. The other notable negative is the dust protection flap over the zipper. If the wind is right and there’s a full moon, the zipper will eat the dust flap, locking the zipper in place preventing your draw. That’s bad juju. I never got around to cutting it away, but that’s probably a good idea if you try one. Overall a good pack. 

Tommy’s Gun Pack (discontinued) 4 / 5

I have about 10 months of use on this discontinued bag. I really like how they did the gun access on this one. They used wide big toothed zippers, which clear dirt and unzip smoothly and easily. The right side FASTEX buckle acts as the pull tab that pulls the zippered gun compartment open. When you pinch the buckle, some clever nylon routing pulls at the zippers which the user stages at the top right corner of the pouch. Yanking forward peels the gun compartment open. One handed access is simple.

This pack is nearly too wide to look like a sports fanny pack. It teeters on the “COP!” end of the scale, similar to the Bianchi. The FASTEX buckles can also become brittle and break with wear. The way the nylon is routed in that buckle would make replacing it quite tricky. Overall a very good pack if you can find one on EBAY.

Wilderness DB Defender 3 / 5 https://www.thewilderness.com/waist-pack-holsters/db-defender-waist-pack/

EDIT 3/7/24: I was able to recently try one of these. My hands-on opinion is the same as my opinion formed from looking at the layout on their website. The gun pocket is a bit too thick (front-to back), and the storage pocket is a bit too small. It’s very well made, as is all of The Wilderness’ gear. It’s “OK”, but it’s not my first recommendation.

I was just made aware of these and haven’t handled one yet. I know DB puts a lot of thought into his gear, so I’m sure this one works well. It has some useful holster attachment options and what looks like plenty of space for different width guns. I like that there isn’t a dust flap over the zipper to get snagged on. I like the flat rear pocket and front utility pocket.

I believe there are some design features that could be reorganized to be even better. The gun pocket zipper is shaped in an arch, where I’d prefer a straight pull zipper to cut down on the possibility of binding the zipper on the draw as you rip the zipper open as the cloth softens over time. I’d like to see a thinner gun section, which might better stabilize and squeeze the pistol and prevent it from flopping forward in the pocket (a problem I had with the KG Products pack). This likely wouldn’t be a concern if you use the holster keeper options it comes with. Some of that reclaimed real-estate could be donated to the front utility pocket along with that arch shaped zipper. This would allow easier access to day to day items. But again, I haven’t handled one and it might be perfect as is.

The Perfect Fanny Pack

If I knew how to sew, or if you do, here’s how I would lay out the perfect pistol fanny pack. Let’s do some business together. 

  • It would be very similar in shape to the KG products or Eberlestock bag. 
  • The body side panel would have laser cut velcro/molle and paracord loops at the bottom to allow a variety of holster accessories as well as afford padding and stiffness to the bag. 
  • The front facing side of the gun section should also be stiffened in some way. The gun section would be a rectangular prism, about as thick as a G19, but no wider. This would hug the pistol and prevent sagging and flopping away from the body, and keep the weight of the front pouch from causing it to sag away from the body.
  • It would have a velcro closure that ran where the top and right side zipper usually do and be secured at the top right corner by a snap or 3. This would make the gun section invisible, stay secure, and be operable with one hand via yanking it forward aggressively.
  • If it instead had zippers, it wouldn’t have a dust flap and it would be a beefy zipper width to open quickly and clear dirt. 
  • There would be an integral pull loop which would attach at the bottom-left front of the gun section and hang out of the bag by a couple of inches. It would be covered in velcro or have a snap located near the top-right to keep the zippers from separating in day to day movement. A single sharp forward pull would open the snaps and unzip the bag for access. 
  • Conversely, you could forgo the pull tab and just put a single snap exactly at the top-right (and top-left) which would keep the bag closed, but quickly rip open if you yank the bag forward.
  • It would have an adequate storage area for a phone, flashlight, keys, and wallet and perhaps a front flat pocket which went low enough in the front to tuck in a TQ where it would effectively sit below the main utility pouch in the front. 

The rest is just details.

Thanks for reading, now please never ask me about fanny packs again.

Backyard Meat Production: Rabbits

My Pallet wood hutch frame, breeding set, waterer system, and suspended cages.


Seeing the meat shortages and supply chain issues we had last year (just-in-time delivery), I glanced over my pantry and food storage and realized I had only really accounted for my small family’s needs for about 3 months. And adding more rice and beans just didn’t make sense. I wanted to be resilient against future supply chain interruptions by producing some percentage of my meat needs. I set out looking for the most self-sustaining backyard meat source that could be kept in the suburbs. I have never raised meat animals, but didn’t want to wait until it was actually an emergency to scramble and learn. That’s as optimistic as buying a “survival seed pack” and keeping it in a drawer for a bad day. You’re not going to just throw a handful of those seeds over your shoulder and start eating a week later. Same for the meat thing.

I wanted livestock that had maximum feed conversion (max meat output to a given feed input), took up little room, and wouldn’t raise concern with my neighbors. I live on just under an acre, so a herd of goats or a cow is obviously a no-go. Since I’m sort of an information aggregator, I decided to throw together this 20,000 foot view of raising rabbits for meat, based on all I’ve learned in the last year.

Here’s a crash course. The end of the post will list books and resources if you want to know more. Almost all of what I know is accumulated knowledge from third parties, and my first breeding is scheduled for the end of the month. I’ve only had the breeding pair for 5 months. So, much of this is hypothetical at the time of posting. But I’m confident in the information listed.

Runner Up

When looking at ‘suburban meat farming’, only two livestock kept coming up in my research. Quail and Rabbits. Quail are cool because you can eat their eggs and meat, they are quieter than chickens, they are easy to process, and you can sustain your lines through line breeding. But, they lose VS rabbits when looking at a pure efficiency standpoint (feed conversion, production volume/time), and HOA rules (rabbits are often considered pets, lol). Also, I already have some chickens for the eggs. So I set out to buy my breeding pair (now a set).

My Mature Doe



Breeds

The most popular meat breed is New Zealand White. An albino rabbit that is used for meat and fur production. Also popular are Californians and Champagne D’argents. You can eat any rabbit, but some have been specifically bred to maximize growth rates, max meat on the loins and legs, delicate bones, and feed conversion. Avoid anything with Giant in the name, they have heavy-ass bones. Buy the best stock you can afford, and ask the important questions of the breeder (link below). The minimum to have a sustainable breeding program is 1 male and 2 females for the backyard breeder.



Feed

You can feed rabbits from the garden, but the easiest way to do it is feed a complete pellet feed. So in a medium/long term disaster, you could grow your own forage and feed them weeds and grass. They wouldn’t thrive, but they’d survive. A 50# bag of complete feed is between $13 and $18 and will last 3 rabbits several months. One bag will also be more than enough to feed a doe (female) and her 6-12  kits (babies) up to market weight. You can water them with crocks (they drink more this way but the bowls get dirty ) or tubing nipple waterers (freeze easily but more sanitary). Commercial producers like the nipples in general, it seems.

Production

With two does (females) and a buck (male), you can aggressively breed them every 10 weeks or so, and expect to get a total of 10-24 kits (babies) between the two. Each bunny has a butchered weight of 3.5 lbs if you butcher at 10 weeks/5lbs each. So you’re looking at something like 300+lbs of meat a year from 3 animals. You can select the best looking/growing kits and start a line breeding program to sustain your lines, until forever. They have a 30 day gestation period, and can be weaned at 4-6 weeks and immediately rebred if desired.

Housing

Wire cages made of galvanized wire, a 14-16gage 1/2×1” floor mesh allows poo to fall through and keeps diseases down.  Avoid wooden hutches as they soak up urine and the rabbits will eat them over time. You can collect the poo in a pile under the cages, or use a more management intensive method like trays. The advantage of trays is you can stack cages and increase space vertically. Cages are easy to build. If you’re making less than 5, it’s cheaper to buy a cage kit and assemble. I am using 36”x30”x18”tall cages. There’s lower limits on cages and it has to do with rabbit breed size. Save the poop. It’s a cold manure (can be directly added to garden beds with no aging) and your garden will love it.

Rabbit nest box at a farm. Spain, 2013.



Raising

They are cold hearty, and heat intolerant. Keep them dry and out of direct wind and you’re good. If it’s super hot, you could consider a more heat tolerant breed (tamuks) or get fans set up and rotate frozen 2liter bottles of water as a cooling pack during the hottest days. Shade as much as possible. Their teeth constantly grow (they are lagomorphs, not rodents), so they need to be able to chew. A chunk of untreated 2×4 makes for a chew toy that keeps them entertained.


They have a few main health problems, the most common of which is coccidiosis, which is a parasite that is contagious within the herd. It can be treated via horse medicine (ivermectin)  in your breeding stock, but you should just cull the grow-outs and eat them if you find it. It will mostly show up in the livers of the grow-outs as white spots. You can eat the meat, but throw away the livers. They also are sensitive to food changes. Introduce new feeds slowly and mixed with what they’re used to. Bloat and intestinal stasis can result. Sometimes they can be saved by giving baby gas drops, but often it’s fatal. There’s other diseases, but these are the ones I see people talk about the most in the fb groups.


Waste Management

Rabbit poo has zero smell. It can be directly applied to the garden as an excellent balanced fertilizer. Their urine, however, is another story. Extreme ammonia smells. The best recipe for managing the volatile smelly stuff is frequent pan cleaning OR sequester it with wood chips. I use pine bedding from the feed store in a layer at the bottom of the large tupperware I use to collect their waste. It acts like a litter, and the high Nitrogen pee starts the composting process with the wood chips. I wouldn’t want too many rabbits inside my house. Plan on keeping them outside.


Breeding

They breed like rabbits. Take the doe to the buck, as the opposite can result in the doe castrating the buck. Wait for three ‘fall offs’, which is when the buck seizes up and dramatically rolls off the back of the doe. Does are open for business 25 days a month and ovulation is triggered by being in proximity with a buck. So if it doesn’t work the first time, just wait a day.

Processing

Very easy. Cervical dislocation (Broomstick method, choke chain method, or hopper popper), or air rifle are both easy and foolproof. Bleed them and clean like any other small game. Keep the ears, lungs, liver, heart and dehydrate them for dog treats. Give the entrails to the chickens to pick at. Drop the carcass into ice for a day or two before freezing or cooking. Yes, they’re cute and fluffy. Yes, I’m anxious about the dispatch day. Yes, I will still deal with it because I know they will have an excellent life right up until the end



Cooking

Anything that you can make with chicken, you can make with rabbit. https://hostilehare.com/rabbit-recipe-index/

Income

You can sell one or two bunnies from each litter at 8 weeks and pay for the feed cost of raising that whole litter. Some people have luck selling the poo (it’s gold for the garden). You can find raw feeders and supply pet food. But mostly this is about on demand meat production. Meat on the hoof doesn’t spoil, so I started keeping some rabbits.

FB Groups:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/275170099295257
https://www.facebook.com/groups/rabbitsandshit
https://www.facebook.com/groups/452846908768833

Care/feeding/buying
https://amzn.to/3amYXWn
https://www.hobbyfarms.com/5-questions-to-ask-when-buying-rabbits-3/
https://resources.bestfriends.org/article/rabbit-diet-what-feed-bunny

Documentaries and Youtube Channels:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgL3Wk3ib7s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbmjCN4T19o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fjLf95DpO0&list=PLW0m-RUVRO1rCSSLvUvyG45JC4vB6IXeH
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3XHSF8Nv6s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OkXszeclxs


Cage and rabbitry supplies
https://www.bassequipment.com/
http://klubertanz.com/
https://www.kwcages.com/

Discipline, Motivation, and Spark

l was thinking about discipline, and how it pertains to my day to day decision making and why I succeed and fail. I decided to try to visualize it and think explore how I leverage discipline to stay on track.Goal: The goal sets the dotted line and dictates the target you are trying to hit. Good goal setting takes practice, as choosing too lofty a goal means even on your most motivated day, you’ll fall short of meeting the needs of your goal. This is failure before you begin.

Spark: The thing that gets you super excited about this goal. Maybe it’s watching an elite athlete perform an amazing feat. Maybe it’s seeing a photo of your fat ass. Maybe it’s seeing someone with something you wish you had. This spark is the impetus to get you started, but is extremely short lived. Usually lasting a few hours at most.

Motivation: Comes into play next. It ebbs and flows over time. Sometimes, the motivation is more than the minimum work required to achieve your goal, at which point the work is enjoyable and effortless. Other times, it dips below that minimum work line, and you fall off the wagon. Depending on how much time you spend below your ‘minimum work’ line, progress could completely stall, or you might even slide backwards. This might mean you have too aggressive a goal, or it might mean you need to lean on…

Discipline: Discipline is the safety net of wavering Motivation. Discipline is the ‘punching the card’ workout when you feel crummy, or the dedicated hour of study time when you’d rather be drinking. It’s the safety net that keeps you from riding the rollercoaster of motivation into the ground. But Discipline is a budget and depletes the more you use it. When you’re on a downswing, you’re burning up your reserves. Lean on Discipline too much and eventually you run out of it and failure results. Discipline replenishes during the upswings in motivation. Sometimes Discipline keeps you above the ‘minimum work’ line, and other times it falls below and only keeps you from derailing yourself. But it’s critical to use it. And just like gaining strength, it builds over time and you get more of it.

Area under the curve: The total work you perform towards your goal is the area under the line defined by the highest value of the three curves at any time (Spark/Motivation/Discipline).This is all purely hypothetical, but it was illustrative to me to visualize these components and will make me think about how I set goals, as well as giving me some feedback about why I seem to be failing or stalling.

2020 Spring/Summer Garden Review

This mega-post will be a 20,000 foot overview of my gardening experiments from this year. I’m writing it as a single post that you can bookmark to remind yourself what you want to try next year (or even this winter). Early in March 2020, when my MMA gym closed, I needed to find something productive to do with my time and energy. I was reasonably sure we’d have supply chain distributions, and have always enjoyed prepping and growing my own food. This was just an excuse to dive into the deep end and see what I could do. As a result, I bought a few chickens, some seeds, and started researching gardening methods that I could try. This post is the culmination of 7 months of learning and note taking. This is only what I’ve tried, and doesn’t touch all available gardening methods.

My History of Gardening: I’m a relatively new gardener. I’ve only tried to grow food for a few seasons in the past and none recently. In fact, I only decided to try again this year when there were supply chain interruptions resulting from Covid.  I had a container garden when I lived in the city that did reasonably well. I live in zone 7b. This year I felt helpless in the world, and so I sought to control what I could physically touch and manipulate, because the rest of the world was obviously outside my control. As was always the case, this year just reminded me. I’ll break it down into sections which will include an explanation of the method,pros and cons of the method, and results. After all that, I’ll post a resources section that will allow you to dig in for yourself and find more details. Here we go!

Methods Attempted and Results


5 gallon, self-watering (bottom watered) containers

I’ve used these 5 gallon bucket self watering planters for about 10 years (off and on as I feel like growing some food). The basic premise is a container with a water reservoir below the growing media, along with an air gap that allows the roots to breathe. There is some sort of ‘wick’ made of either soil or cloth that allows capillary wicking of water up into the soil. You can see that I simply got a food-grade 5 gallon bucket, a 24” segment of PVC, and used milk jugs with holes drilled in it that the PVC rests in as the water/air reservoir.

They usually have a water overflow hole drilled at a level that preserves a given water level and an air gap to make it fool proof. They’re great for small spaces, patios, and for being able to move to find appropriate light conditions or when a frost is coming and they need to be covered or relocated. They can go quite a while without daily watering (up to 2 weeks in my experience) and the process is foolproof. You water into the pipe that passes into the water reservoir, and fill it until water flows from the overfill port.

I had reasonable success with cherry tomatoes, and good success with chili and serrano peppers. I think tomatoes do better with more space for the roots. I will be using this method for herbs and chilis next year, for sure. Soil nutrition is key. I believe the soil I used was lacking adequate nutrition and that held back my production a bit. My chicken composting system will solve that for next year.

Pros:

  • Ease of use/transport, you can follow the sun if you’re not sure how your light tracks
  • Resilient to negligence

Cons:

  • Not enough space for a tomato plant to thrive, does best with hot peppers and herbs.
  • Success depends on soil prep and nutrition.



Straw Bale Gardening:

This was a new one for me. It’s also simple. You get a bale of straw, and condition it with high Nitrogen fertilizer to begin the composting process and prepare it for planting. I failed to properly condition my bales, and it slowed down my production. 

In case you don’t know, the basic premise of composting is piling Brown stuff (carbon source) with Green stuff (nitrogen source, usually green colored plant matter/leaves) and it accelerates the rate of the process of aerobic breakdown of the materials.

With straw bale gardening, you’re buying a brick of carbon in the form of straw, and then watering nitrogen into it over a couple weeks, and then once the hot composting slows down, plant into them.

The relative failure of my straw bale gardening can be directly attributed to improper conditioning of the bale. I didn’t have the high nitrogen pelletized fertilizer (urea or similar), and just planted into the bale. This made for a poor outcome in my strawberries and okra, though my watermelons did well. I’ll give this another shot next year, probably with tomatoes and I’ll see how it goes.

Pros:

  • No permanent structure required.
  • Acts as a raised bed of sorts, keeping management easier.
  • Relatively inexpensive. No beds to build or buckets to buy.
  • At the end of season, you can compost the remaining straw and have rich soil for next season.
  • Builds soil. I planted right on top of my lawn and the soil has been tilled by the worm activity and nutrition has gone into the soil.

Cons:

  • Improper conditioning leaves the straw devoid of nutrition, thus stunting your plants.

Instant Garden/Lasagna Garden:

This one was a big surprise. This method was second best from a production standpoint, and totally free to set up. The process is as follows. Get some discarded cardboard from behind a grocery store or from FB marketplace from someone trying to get rid of moving boxes. Remove tape and labels and lay it down DIRECTLY on top of your existing lawn. On top of that, pile up whatever organic matter you have available. I used magnolia leaves, mulch, grass clippings, and whatever else I could find. Make it about 4-10” thick all the way down and cover it so you can’t see any cardboard.

The cardboard is a biodegradable weed barrier, and the mulch holds water and keeps the plants watered. This also is inviting for worm activity, which leaves worm castings (poop) that is like super fuel for plants. When you’re ready to plant, scrape a little hole in the mulch, punch through the cardboard, and plant your plant. You can drop some rabbit pellets or compost in the holes to give the plants a little early nutrition.

I’m planning out how I’ll do this next year on a larger scale. I don’t have an HOA, so I may turn my whole front yard into a production. I couldn’t believe how well this did. I was able to grow 5 monster okra plants and several squash varieties. All within a 2’x15’ row.

Pros:

  • Inexpensive (free)
  • Simple setup. A 20 foot bed took about 30 minutes to lay out, and that’s because I had to rake leaves for some of that time.
  • Builds soil over time. The compost and cardboard breaks down and the worm activity aerates and feeds the soil.
  • Effective. My front yard here in GA is nothing special, and all of the plants I planted did very well. Your mileage will vary, but I’m confident this will beat opening up a bag of potting soil and planting into that.

Cons:

  • Since it’s on the ground, there’s a lot of pest pressure. I had vine borers kill the squash plants before they were done producing.

Raised Beds:

Raised beds are good for several reasons. They are a clear demarcation for your planting area, allowing easy care and weeding. They are higher so you can service and harvest easily from them. If your soil sucks, you can customize and amend the soil in the raised bed however you want to accommodate what you’re growing. I used garden corner bricks I bought at Lowes. They stack on each other, and allow a piece of rebar to be driven through them to keep them in place. You use untreated 2×6’s cut to desired length to form the beds and then fill with soil. I also encourage you to put cardboard under the bed to discourage weeds. I planted malabar spinach and squash in mine and they have done amazingly well.

Pros:

  • Depending on chosen material they can be reasonably affordable, but you can spend as much as you like.
  • Easier servicing and maintenance due to height
  • Easier garden demarcation
  • Less ground insect pressure, but bugs will still find it

Cons:

  • Can be expensive
  • Easier to do on flat property, my backyard has very few flat sections, otherwise this would probably be my primary method.



Felt Bag/Container Garden:

This method is pretty standard. Buy a bucket (or felt bucket) with drainage holes, fill with soil and compost or nutrients, and plant. I’d say this is sort of the gold standard of gardeners in the suburbs. I also used this method for sweet potatoes and potatoes this year. I even grew corn in a felt container. Herbs and peppers also do well. It’s very similar to the bottom watered (self-watering) 5 gallon buckets, they just need more care because they don’t hold as much water. As with all methods, nutrient and soil health is the biggest key.

Pros:

  • Easy to find buckets and containers
  • No dedicated garden space needed, can be done on a patio or driveway
  • Easy to move or organize

Cons:

  • There can be drainage problems, depending on how you fill the containers
  • Often containers seem to stunt the growth due to lack of root space
  • They dry out much faster than other methods because they’re exposed to the air on the top and sides


Hydroponics (Kratky Method): 

Hydroponics can be expensive and complicated. This method  is decidedly NOT those things. The method was devised by a professor in Hawaii named Dr. Kraky and is as follows. Use a complete hydroponics nutrient blend and fill up an appropriate sized bucket (between a mason jar for lettuce, or a trash can for tomatoes) with the properly mixed solution. Plop a net pot with a seed or plant so that the nutrient just touches the roots. As the solution is absorbed and evaporates, the root structure will grow and ‘chase’ the solution downward. The air gap provides the oxygen so the plant won’t suffocate. No pumps required. It can be done in batches where no additional solution is needed, OR you can create simple float valves to replenish the solution if it gets too low. I didn’t bother with float valves this year, but I may next year.

You can do this method inside or out. I set up a greens growing station in my basement and can sustainably make more lettuce/chard/spinach than my family can eat. All winter long. I also used a tomato sucker in a 32 gallon trash can and it has done extremely well.. I’d say that the kratky method really excels at leafy greens, though.

Pros:

  • Only requires a container, nutrient solution, net pot (or similar)
  • Hands off other than monitoring water level. If you size container appropriately, you won’t need to add any water over the grow
  • No pumps or complicated electronics
  • Indoor or outdoor friendly
  • Small space friendly

Cons:

  • Not sustainable like gardening, because you need nutrient concentrate
  • Not resilient. If the water level goes too low, the plants will die within a couple of hours.
  • Not ideal for fruiting plants without additional components


Check Log Terrace Garden

This is the most recent experiment. Basically, my backyard is very sloped. I wanted to find a way to plant on the hill without renting heavy equipment to build retaining walls, or spending thousands on brick to make terraces. Instead, I drove a series of wooden stakes and rebar every 2-4 feet along the contour line, then rolled a length of 4-6” diameter logs against those stakes. I then backfilled with soil, and then added another stack of logs and backfilled again. Now I have a wooden terrace that I can plant into. I intend to establish perennials like strawberries and biennials like asparagus that will keep the hill from eroding, as well as a rotation of potatoes and garlic over the winter.

So far it is working wonderfully. Once again I am learning the importance of soil nutrition. I filled the beds with the wood chip/chicken poop compost that my chickens have been working all summer. The vigorous growth of the potatoes is showing me how rich that soil is. Thanks chickens!

Pros:

  • If you live on a wooded lot, you can cut logs and the materials are free. If not, check FB marketplace for people who are offering free logs and limbs , and take what you need.
  • Allows planting on an aggressively sloped yard

Cons:

  • Eventually the logs will rot and need to be replaced.

That’s the big overview of 2020’s gardening season. I intend to further break down each method in its own post and share the sources I consulted, as well as the equipment I needed for each. I’ll likely start with the Kratky Hydroponics systems, because you could grow greens in a spare room or basement all winter long.

Thanks for reading!