Category: Articles

Improving ‘The Most Important Shot’

I don’t think it’s any real revelation to say that the most important skill in defensive shooting is the first shot from the holster. Every story you will read about an armed citizen using their gun in a shooting has one thing in common… They had to get their gun out and shoot! After the first shot rings out, the shooting problem becomes much more complicated. Shooting skills such as shooting on the move, shooting multiple targets, reloading, malfunction work, grappling in a weapons based environment, retention shooting, and a hundred others are all important. However, they all require you to already have the gun in your hand. Taking this into consideration, I spend a significant amount of time (both live and dryfire) practicing what I consider to be the most important skill in shooting. I am currently working on making this faster, more accurate, and more repeatable. I’m going to list my approach but please understand that I’m open for suggestions and ways to improve.

What are the components of a rapid first hit?

  • Clearing the cover garment. Ideally you will chose a way that works regardless of clothing choices and time of year. I do a ‘Hackathorn Rip‘ which essentially is grabbing as much jacket/shirt material as I can with my left hand, ripping it as high as I can get it, keeping my left hand high on my pectoral muscle, while establishing a full firing grip on the gun with the right hand. If you go to that link, you’ll see there’s like 12 jillion ways to clear your cover garment. In the interest of not having to remember what season it is, and whether my jacket is unzipped, I decided to just pull all that crap out of the way and get my gun. This might slow me down a bit, but I’m OK with that for the sake of robustness (H/T Gomez). It’s better than leaving some shirt material in the way to foul my draw. I like this method because the left hand is holding the shirt material and waiting for the gun hand to pass through the horizontal line of presentation so it can mate with the right hand.
  • Doing a perfect draw-stroke. I have made the conscious decision in my practice to forgo a competition draw stroke in which the gun goes in a straight line from holster to full extension (shortest distance). I have been working with a universal draw-stroke with a built in retention position, as well as the ability to stop along the horizontal line of presentation to shoot, depending on the proximity of the threat. This approach makes the most sense to me analytically, and I’ve experienced the usefulness during force on force evolutions in ECQC and in our training group. I understand that in order to shave significant time off of my draw-stroke, I may have to modify the path of my draw-stroke to a more direct line a la Ron Avery. I haven’t decided if that’s worth it or not.
  • Begin refining the sight picture and prepping the trigger as the gun presses out to full extension. Bring the gun to your eye, not the other way around. I keep my muzzle horizontal under my dominant eye throughout the draw, and the gun never goes lower than it was an instant before. I get the gun into my eye-target line as quickly as possible, and begin touching the trigger as the slide and sights become visible in the lower portion of my peripheral vision. The idea is that as the gun approaches full extension, the sight picture is refined and the trigger has a few pounds of pressure on it. The shot will break just as the gun reaches full extension and you’ll put the shot exactly where it needed to go. An alternative to this method is one taught by Todd Green of www.pistol-training.com where the gun is angled slightly up as the gun is brought from the holster and the front sight is slightly higher than the rear. As you present the gun, the front sight is driven straight towards the target as the rear sight is brought up to meet it. This method is nice when searching with a gun in your hand in an averted muzzle ready position, where you keep the gun angled up while looking past the front sight post as you move. I have given time to both methods, though I’ve never been formally instructed in TLG’s method. Here’s a clip of Gomez discussing some of these points. The relevant video starts at 2:30 or so.
  • Seeing what you need to see to make a good shot. There are countless books and videos about this, but in a nutshell it’s about only taking as much time as you need to take to make the shot you need to make. Perfecting this comes with experience, coaching, and lots of practice. It’s the part I struggle with the most. A torso shot at 4 yards and an eyeball shot at 15 yards require different levels of refinement of both sight picture, as well as trigger control.
  • Don’t be a spaz. Moving ‘faster’ doesn’t necessarily allow you to make a faster shot. For me, it just makes my sights bounce around a lot more and takes me time to correct them at the last instant. Like Avery says in that video above, trimming the wasted movement seems to go a long way in improving speed.

 How do I get better?

Step one, find a reputable instructor who teaches this sort of thing. Learn the correct way to do it, then take it back home and practice practice practice. You should also have a timer. Use either a proper shot timer, or download a shot timer for your smart phone. You’ll want to use it for par times and eventually capture actual times that you can use to carve away wasted movement. Get video of yourself shooting. Looking at yourself is different than just concentrating on how your movement feels. You might see something really stupid that you can’t feel yourself doing.

What drills can I shoot?

I’m using these two live fire drills currently:

Press Six – This drill uses progressively shortening time standards, and increases the round count. It will force you to get hits quickly and test your follow through and grip when making the multiple shot strings. I’ve started at 3 yards, and follow the instructions on the drill for when to move the target further away.

3-two-1 – This drill forces you to ‘see what you need to see’ to make shots on a given target sizes. I’m hoping this one will help me improve breaking shots more quickly when the target is larger, and keep me honest on sights and trigger for lower probability targets.

I’m doing the following in my dry fire practice:

Target is a scaled down torso with aiming spot on the high center chest. Distance varies but I try to simulate between 3 and 15 yards with the reduced size target. Please follow safe dry-fire practices and don’t put a hole through your TV.

20 – perfect and deliberate draws with trigger press. Take your time and do everything how you want to do it.

20 – 3/4 speed draws with trigger press.

15 – full speed draws with trigger press. Occasionally I’ll use a par timer and set it for 1.5 to 2 seconds. I am concentrating on finding the front sight and having the shot break as I reach full extension. This requires some honesty with myself and occasionally a video camera. Video doesn’t lie.

5- perfect and deliberate draws with trigger press. I finish with a perfect mechanics.

This is a great resource for dry fire. It’s pretty old at this point, but it keeps dry fire interesting.

 

Any tips you can turn me onto, I’d appreciate it. I’m just trying to get better like everyone else!!!
Protect the Brood,

Defensive Daddy.

Making ‘I Spy’ A Useful Awareness Game For Your Child

As my son gets older and is interacting more with the world around him, I have been trying to figure out ways to make ‘situational awareness’ a part of his life from an early age. Growing up, my dad didn’t have any particular method to make me pay attention to the details of the world around me as far as I can tell, but he did always pay attention to small details about people. He always pointed out accents, mannerisms, posture, and mood of people we interacted with. My mom always played ‘which of these things is not like the others’ in children’s books, but nothing as it related to other people. ‘I Spy’ in the car was always a popular game in the van. The groundwork was laid, but only as a way to pass the time.

In my adult life and especially after I adopted personal defense on as my primary pursuit, I was able to focus this attention to useful details that seem to allow me to see situations unfolding before others are aware of it. For instance, I notice details about vehicles, odd characters in crowds, I see friends in crowds before they see me, I notice things that are strange and otherwise out of place, or when a person’s focus changes to me in a crowd. This isn’t to say I’m a ninja, my filter is just tuned to catch a lot of this stuff. I want the same for my son because I feel it could save his life.

Spending a life staring into an iPhone is a good way to miss something important.

I was recently reading Sentinel, by Patrick McNamara, which is an outstanding book in which the author uses his military and PSD (personal security detail) experience to frame personal protection for a family. It’s a great book, a quick read, and worth the cost (especially the Kindle version). His style of writing is very to the point and has an obvious military flare, which I sort of dig. In it, he highlights a game that you can play with your kids to teach them to pay attention to small details as it relates to the world around them. He calls it The Awareness Game.

Everyone plays ‘I Spy’ with their kids. Usually it’s looking for innocuous things such as colors, numbers, cars, buildings, and so on. Instead of that, ask your children to note small details about the people, things and places you see. Here’s some examples:

  • What state was on that red sport car’s license plate?
  • What color were the security guard’s shoes? Did he have a gun?
  • Is this the same car that was parked here when we arrived? (as you exit the store)
  • What color was the truck that we parked next to?
  • What was the last mile marker we passed on the highway?
  • How many kids did that momma have with her in the grocery store line?
  • What was strange about the old man asking for money?
  • What was the waiter’s name tonight at dinner?
  • What floor did we just get out on? (exiting an elevator)

Asking these types of questions will (should) put your child’s focus out into the world instead of in their immediate surroundings. They might not always answer correctly, but if they start putting importance on seeing details it can only help them. If you make it fun they will probably start to challenge you back, keeping you on your toes. You’re building a teammate from the ground up.

The efficacy of this game is purely hypothetical for me at this point, as my son is still talking baby talk and not potty trained…but I will be playing this game with him as soon as he’s ready. I want to streamline the learning curve for him and give him the tools to live in condition yellow starting early. This isn’t just about spotting bad guys. The ability to recall details like license plates, phone numbers, a person’s description, the address of a building, a flat tire on the family car, etc, is a useful skill that can help your child avoid minor inconveniences, and possibly save his/her life. Let the games begin!

Protect the Brood,

Defensive Daddy

PS. Check out the Amazon Store or just do your regular shopping through this Click-Through. You won’t pay more, but I’ll get a few pennies to keep the blog rolling. Thanks.

Daddy’s New AR-15 Pistola

Gear: Not my Usual Hangup

I’m really not a gear guy. No, really. I tend to abide by very practical set of rules. I dedicate most of my practice to what I feel are the most likely scenarios. This puts me in the basement gym and on the mats first, practicing applying tourniquets to myself second, the pistol range third, and a shotgun or rifle in my hands last. Most of my day is spent in a non-permissive environment so I train accordingly. This makes for a boring blog, I’ll admit. I won’t be fondling new gear every three days and telling you how good the trigger feels, or how well the stock matches Magpul’s OD green color. That stuff is tedious and boring to me. Go watch youtube for that garbage. I find interest in tactics and gaining mastery of the basics using the most practical tools for the job. End Rant. That said, sometimes Daddy wants a new toy. My choice for my 31st birthday was building out a Spikes lower receiver that I got from a good friend who passed away a few years ago. I know Steve would be stoked at what I made out of his lower. This post will be more of a show and tell than anything useful for you (SORRY!).

I was hanging out with Tactical Response and James Yeager (my main man) a few weekends ago.

You will probably never see me with a more genuine smile. (photo: Yeager)

They were down in Atlanta for Fighting Pistol and Fighting Rifle. I was helping on day one of fighting rifle running a few drills so we could get the rather large class a few extra reps of several movement drills. I must admit, it re-ignited my fire for rifles and rifle caliber guns. The thumps in my chest as I guided shooters through drills felt like home and brought me back to when I was doing a lot of rifle training and wearing armor and doing other stuff I didn’t really need to know how to do. But it was FUN! Anyway, here’s the story and specs of the new pistol.

Keeping an eye on the line with Three Gun Calvin (photo credit: S. Brogan, downrange photographer)

But…Ballistics!

One of the biggest draws of the AR Pistol is the ability to use barrels that are less than the rifle length of 16″. You can find 11.5″, 10.5″, and even 7.5″ barrels. The wound mechanism for 5.56 is primarily fragmentation due to the high velocity round disintegrating as it passes through the fluid filled tissue of meat. Go read The Ammo Oracle for more than you want to know about 5.56 ammo. The shorter the barrel, the less velocity the round achieves, and the shorter the distance the projectile is above this critical velocity for fragmentation. With modern projectiles, this can be mitigated a bit, but the difference between a 16″ and a 10.5″ gun are pretty drastic by the data. Beyond those ranges, the 5.56 turns into a .22LR icepick and shows similar wound profiles. That said, plenty of dudes have been killed at these ranges with short barreled ARs. My homie Mookie is one who has done work at extended ranges with a shortie. So the short of it is, I’ll just shoot bad guys in the heart and brain and let God sort it out. Besides, this will be a house gun, so ranges are well within the velocity ranges to fragment.

Mookie, on right, w/ a 10.5″ gun in Najaf. 4/4/04

Why the AR Pistol?

I have been trying to justify an AR pistol to myself since 2011 (Proof: http://www.getoffthex.com/topic/ar-pistol-anything-i-m-not-considering). I always was on the fence about the AR pistol concept because the execution was always a bunch of tradeoffs in shootability and ballistic performance for confined space maneuverability and sidestepping some legal hoops. First, shooting any AR pistol ‘like a pistol’ is a losing endeavor. As a believer in sighted, combat effective (read: heart and brain shots) shooting, I couldn’t get behind holding a rifle caliber pistol like a pistol and blazing away. Too much room for misses and hitting things and people I don’t want to.

lol, wut? I realize this picture shows the new Sig arm brace but the idea of shooting like this, with or without the brace, is so silly.

Then there was a period where people started using longer buffer tubes, wrapping them in paracord, and putting walking cane rubber caps onto the buffer tubes. This was a step in the right direction. It still sort of sucked, because the single circular contact point on the buffer tube made it a bit squirrely. The idea of the practicality as it related to shooting was sneaking into my head.

Then a year or two ago, Sig Sauer introduced the Sig Brace. Its intent of design is for the brace to slip over your pistol buffer tube and strap the gun to your forearm so you can shoot your AR pistol like a pistol, and not require superhuman forearm strength.

Then the ATF wrote a few letters saying essentially, “Yeah, you can shoot your pistol off of whatever you want, shoulder included” things got super legit. I logged that away and waited for my time to jump.

From TheFirearmBlog. Doing it RIGHT.

No Tax Stamps and Less Involvement by The Man.

I would wager that most of you would prefer to keep The Man out of your life as much as possible. Most of us don’t have anything to hide, but setting up a trust, paying the $200 tax stamp and months of wait time, the idea of the ATF being able to come check up on a registered SBR (Short Barreled Rifle), needing to know where it was at all times, needing permission to leave the state for training in other states, inability to keep it loaded in the vehicle… It is just too much trouble for me. Compare that with a firearm classified as a pistol. My Georgia concealed weapon permit covers it just like it does my Glock19. I can carry it loaded in the car, travel interstate to where my permit is honored, all the advantages of a pistol. Minimal Fed involvement. Sounds good to me.

The Build

One of my friends volunteered to help me put the rifle together. I was motivated by prices, but I splurged in a few places where I knew it would make a difference. Here’s the parts I purchased and was given.

-Yankee Hill 10.5″ Threaded Barrel, 1:9″ Twist

-Primary Arms Advanced Micro Dot with Push Buttons and up to 50K-Hour Battery Life

-Troy Low Profile Gas Block – Pro Grade (SS) .750

-XS tritium AR sights, stripe front sight post

-Noveske KX5 flash suppressor

– Magpul Gen 2 Flip-Up Front Sight Black

-MaTech rear sight – used and abused and gifted to me

-Daniel Defense Carbine Length Gas Tube Assembly

-BCM GUNFIGHTER Grip MOD 3

-BCM GUNFIGHTER Charging Handle (5.56mm/.223) Mod 4

-MIDWEST INDUSTRIES SSK-KEY MOD 10″ Handguard

-Spike’s Tactical lower and BCG

-Upper, rear sight, bcg and upper gifted by good friends

–Exos Defense Pistol Tube for SB15

–SigTac SB15

-Airsoft clone of a magpul MS2

-White Light (to come) – InForce WMLx Multifunction 500 Lumen

Building these things Isn’t That Hard

They just aren’t that hard. You need a few specialized tools. You’ll need a receiver block to clamp the upper (or some dense foam to prevent you from harming the surface of the upper when installing the barrel. An armorers wrench is crucial too. Beyond that, a vise and a 1/2″ drive ratchet and some locktite for screws and moly for the barrel is all we needed.

Midwest Industries Keymod Rail. Disregard backwards front sight.

Fin.

The First Practice Sessions

I was lucky enough to be able to take my wife to the first practice session I had with the pistol. I was tickled when she took to it like a fish to water and enjoyed the hell out of herself. She commented on how both this and her 10/22 were ‘hers’. That’s encouraging for me because she has always hesitantly accepted guns in her life. Her showing interest in shooting is like her showing interest in video games. Something I never thought possible.

The first range trip had an A2 style flash hider installed, instead of the Noveske KX5. The result was a 3′ wide fireball and a tremendous concussion in the indoor range. I drew some attention from adjacent bays. In subsequent trips, I have used the KX5, which greatly helps noise experienced by the shooter (I was told it’s about 15dB less for the shooter) as well as by teammates or fellow range goers in adjacent bays. She had fun, and the pistol ran very well, except with steel ammo. Like Yeager says, “Commie ammo for Commie guns, American ammo for American guns.” Fair enough.

The Mrs. laying them into the heart and brain. Note her cheekweld has improved since she last shot her 10/22. I told you I’d work on it with her…

Last Saturday I had free reign of a range for about 3 hours all by myself. I shot pistol and AR pistol. All sorts of drills, from the evil eyeballs drill, Defoor’s “Humbler” (consider me humbled), and some Pat Mac style sprint and plant and shoot drills. I tried to do everything that came to mind. It was therapeutic.

All in all, I’m excited to re-incorporate rifle caliber shooting to my repertoire. I need to get with The Tactical Professor and ask him about drills for long guns. I’ll start doing dryfire with the AR between sets of pullups and kettlebell swings.

Sorry for the gear-centric post. It won’t happen too often, I swear 🙂

Protect the Brood,
Defensive Daddy

Hardening the Home, Part 2: Up-Armor Your Security

In the second installment of this series, we will discuss the how of increasing your home security. I’ll be talking about how to use the diagram that you made in the first article. We will talk about how to negate the weak points of your house’s layout, and light up the dark spots. We will list some inexpensive physical security upgrades, early warning methods, and some ideas about how to project the illusion of extra security when you might not actually have it. Remember that our goal is to appear to be a harder target than the folks next door (sorry neighbor Bob). Everything I mention in this article are things I have done to my home. All of the upgrades are budget minded and doing all of them totals less than $250.

I knew my home was projecting the appearance of security when my neighbors reminded me this was a ‘good neighborhood’ and asked why I had my house lit up like a Christmas tree at night.

We want our homes to appear unappealing from the street, unappealing from close up, be difficult to enter by actually reinforcing entry points, have early warning systems in place to alert us to intruders, and we need to have a ‘safe room’ and a plan established to fall back to if all of the precaution fails. Let’s build our layers of security for the home.

Home Security, like Ogres and onions, are layered

Layer 1: From the Street

Like we read about in the interviews with burglars, the first thing bad guys look for is the appearance of alarm systems. Some then test to see if there is actually an alarm system and will abort the burglary immediately if an alarm is triggered. As a result, you should either go all the way and get an alarm system installed, with battery backup and SMS cell tower dial-out so that power outage or a phone line being cut don’t affect the police being called. Barring this, start by purchasing security system signs and decals. Put the big sign by the mailbox and paste the stickers on windows and doors on ground level.

Keep your shrubs and hedges trimmed in such a way that there are no hiding spots from the road. If you have a basement window that is hidden by a thick bush, it makes a great entry point because it conceals the burglar’s movements. Keep things trimmed up. If you can’t, you should consider planting bushes that have thorns and would make crawling past uncomfortable. I cut down a large decorative tree that was obscuring the front door from the street (not to mention it was ugly) and the wife and I purchased bushes that we could keep under control while still looking nice.

IMG_4761
The ugly ass tree is now in the burn pile.

Use the lighting diagram you made from the last post to find the darkest parts of your house. If there are entry points there, fix that. Purchase motion sensing flood lights and install them. You should light the dark areas whether you can see the areas they illuminate or not. They are simple to install, just make sure you don’t zap yourself. If you happen to have an area that doesn’t have an existing fixture, the MicroSolar Outdoor Solar Motion Sensor Lightis outstanding. I installed one in the dark zone of my home and it’s bright and waterproof. I highly recommend it. We’re livin’ in the future, I tell you…

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Light where you need it.

If you want to get fancy, you can buy Security Cameras and mount cameras to monitor your home 24/7. When I was in Atlanta, I had a four camera system. Two of the cameras monitored the street in both directions, one camera watched the front door, and the last camera watched that camera and the front windows to make sure no one tampered with the door camera. I recall at least two occasions where casual passersby noticed the cameras and started talking about it to themselves. I was glad they noticed them. Being obvious is good.

My neighbors didn’t have any installed, and a wannabe home invader nearly broke past the front door when they opened it for them (reminder: you don’t have to open the door just because someone knocks). I’m not saying it prevented an attempt on my house, but I know that no home invaders tried to push past my wife into the house as they did to the neighbors. If you want to go more budget minded, you can buy a few Dummy Security Cameras and put them in obvious places visible from the street. I would try to make the dummy cameras obvious, but with the real cameras I’d be more strategic so that they aren’t easy to disable without being seen by another camera. Think interlocking fields of fire.

Layer 2: From Up Close

Here are some ideas that will help if the first line of deterrence fails. These are things meant to deter if someone is in close proximity to the house and possibly peeking past blinds and attempting a rouse to see who might be home before doing the deed.

Have sheer blinds on the ground level at a minimum. No one should have unfettered visual access to your house. Window shopping is fine at the mall, not at my house.

Having a dog is a great idea. More dogs is more better. They give good kisses, they’re loyal to the death, they will keep you warm on the couch, and a barking dog is a well known deterrent for burglary. I would suggest you not get a dog only for home defense, because they get expensive. I really am quite fond of ours. Consider that a burglar might check to see what parts of your house the dogs can’t get to and break in there. That’s just something to think about.

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Blood Thirsty Savages.

If you don’t want a dog, then why not make it seem like you have a dog? Get a well chewed toy from a friend’s dog, a water bowl, and maybe a  ‘Beware Of Dog’ Sign and hang it on the fence. Plant the seed of doubt in the bad guy’s mind.

Get an old radio and a lamp and put them on a cheapo Lighting Timer. Have the radio play during the day and the light come on a few times at night. Most burglars don’t want to tangle with the home owner.

Don’t leave the tools of the trade laying around your house. The ladder under your porch? That makes a great escalator to reach your second story. The hammer you left by the garage? Universal key. Don’t make it easier for them. Put a bike chain on the ladder rungs and lock it to your porch. Clean up your tools.

Don't do this, silly.
Don’t do this, silly.

Layer 3: Physically Harden the Entrances

If you have old style wooden framed windows, Security Pins are cheap and easy reinforcement. All you need to install them is a drill. If you have newer vinyl windows, Vinyl Window Lock simply tighten to the track, and prevent movement of the window. Be sure to keep the key to the pins on the top of the frame of the windows so in case you need to open the windows in a hurry (FIRE) you can.

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If you have deadbolts, be sure the ones near windows are keyed and you remove the keys when not in use. Being able to  smash the window and unlock the deadbolt sort of defeats the purpose.

Consider removing or putting a security film on the windows of your garage.

Installing Security Strike plates is another simple upgrade that anyone can do. I had no trouble completing the job using a drill and a dremel tool. Make sure you match the existing hardware colors, because wives don’t like mismatched door hardware (ask me how I know). I have read in several places that the average amount of time a burglar spends trying to gain entry is about 60 seconds, then they lose interest and look for greener pastures. The increased number of longer screws and thicker gauge metal should both help to slow entry. This buys you time if you’re home during the break-in and might make a burglar fear too much attention if he has to keep kicking the door if you’re not home.

photo 1 (1)
6 – 3″ screws is more than 2 – 1/2″ screws. It’s science.

Layer 4: Early Warnings

Let’s say today is your day. The guy is coming in, brought the right tools to defeat your reinforcements (or you left something unlocked or wide open), and found a door that your dogs can’t reach. If you have a monitored alarm system, hopefully this is where that takes over and the coppers are on the way. A huge fear of mine is waking up and the bad guys are right outside the bedroom. The lack of time makes my palms sweat. That would be a bad day. Let’s say you don’t have the option of a monitored alarm system. What can you do?


Put an old baby monitor in a distant room, and the receiver in your bed room. If someone starts shuffling around in the garage or basement, you’ll hear it. Plenty of time to get the cops on the line and get your gear on.

This Security Alarm Kit is great both as a deterrent and as an early warning. They are LOUD. The units work via a magnet that keeps the alarm silent when it’s next to the unit, and sets it off when it’s separated. It will shut off as soon as the magnet is put back in place. My personal hope is that as soon as the 120 dB alarm starts blaring, the bad guy remembers a previous engagement and leaves. I have several of these strategically placed in the remote areas of my house and I can hear them from anywhere in the house. I’m really pleased with these so far. They also work well for apartments or dorm rooms. Recommended.

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Place a convex mirror (I used a baby car mirror) outside of your front door, where you can see it from your peephole. Put it in a place that allows you to see the blind spot to the immediate left and right of your door. Being able to see 180 degrees outside of your front door gets rid of any hiding spots that someone could use for an ambush when you open the door for that nice gentleman who needs to use a phone.

“Pardon me, You got any of them phones I can use?” Seems legit.

Layer 5: The Safe Room

We’ve discussed this briefly in previous posts. There’s also many resources about this online. Do some googling and reading.

Layer 6: You

I’d be remiss if I didn’t remind you that in order for all of this gear to work, you have to have the Mindset to implement it. You have to have the presence of mind to set your alarms, change the batteries, lock the doors, not open the door for just anybody, not leave the new flat screen TV box visible to all passersby on trash day, create plans and train your family, and so on. We are usually our home’s biggest security weakness. Be a tougher nut to crack.

Protect the Brood,

Defensive Daddy.